Our Honeymoon in Italy
 

San Francisco to London
We enjoyed a relaxing evening at the Hyatt in San Francisco after our wedding. The view was spectacular.

We could even watch the people ice skating at Embarcadero Center.
Then, the next afternoon we were on a very long flight to London. Of course, Kevin can sleep anywhere, both on the plane and at the airport.

Rome
Palatine Hill--home of the ceasars. I only got pictures of it from below, since we just didn't have the energy later to go up there.
I took Kevin on a walking tour of the Forum, courtesy of our Rick Steve's guidebook. I thought it was interesting that many of these stones are simply left where they were found--friezes from roof tops left where they toppled over a thousand years ago.
Et tu, Brute? Ceasar's funeral pyre.
The Forum--the political and social hub of Ancient Rome. The ugly brown building on the right was built overtop of the original Senate floor. The victory arch in the center of the picture is, I think, the one that was built after the sack of Jerusalem in 70 AD. In the background on the left is Capitol Hill.

The Temple of Vesta, where the Vestal Virgins tended the sacred fire. The girls were chosen from amoung the noble families of Rome to serve a thirty year term of service. If at the end of their term they were proven to still be virgins, they were given wealth and a husband. If it was discovered that they were not virgins, they were given a loaf of bread and a flask of wine and were burried alive.
My darling husband must keep up his strength. Protein shakes came in very handy for our sightseeing days.
The original mosaic floor of the Senate.
Notice how much higher the modern street is than the Forum floor. While two hundred years ago, visitors could only imagine what might lay beneath the soil that only the tops of columns poked out of, we can only imagine what the forum looked like when covered by ten to fifteen feet of dirt.
I love to see the different layers of history all bundled into one building, each successive era simply building on the ruins of the previous.
Kitty cats! While we were walking over to the Pantheon, we came across this large space that had been excavated. Among the ruins, lots of well-fed cats lounged around, trying to get warm in the sun.
Sorry to K for the unflattering up-the-nose shot, but obviously I was trying to get the dome of the Pantheon here. By the time we got there it was early afternoon, so both the dome and the adjacent square were packed. I decided that it was better to get this shot of K than accidentally get a butt shot of a complete stranger.
And here is the reason why the Pantheon is still standing today, rather than wasting away as so much rubble--it was converted to a church. Maybe I'm being uncharitable. Maybe all those generations of the past would have realized the architectural and historical significance of this building and would have protected it from time and the ravages of "recyclers"...but, maybe not. (Just look at the Coloseum.)
This is the only shot I got of the Vittorio Emmanuel II Memorial. Granted, it's impressive, but in a sort of over-the-top kind of way. At least the architecture is in keeping with the surrounding ruins, even though it is a modern building, built to commemorate the unification of Italy.
And, here we are inside the Coloseum. I suppose we should have gotten a guided tour here, but we had so much fun just wandering around on our own. Besides, after all the walking we had done (Forum to the Pantheon to the Boca di Verita Piazza to the Circus Maximus and back to the Coloseum) we really wanted to take in the arena at our own pace.
I hadn't realized before that the Coloseum wasn't built until after the sack of Jerusalem in 70 A.D. Not only was the contruction funded by Rome's victory, but our guide book mentioned that it was built by Jewish slaves.
A wooden cross stands to one side of the arena in honor of the many Christians who were martyred here and in other stadiums throughout Rome.
Trevi Fountain. Beautiful...and crowded. I guess the crowd wasn't too bad compared to my dad's descriptions of his summer visit, but it was still a bit overwhelming.
And yes, I tossed a coin to assure my return to the beautiful city.
More crowds on the Spanish steps, but the higher you climb the thinner they get. By the time we got to the top section, we were able to take a seat and enjoy the sunset.
It was kind of fun to be in Italy just after Christmas--everywhere we went, every church we went into and major sight we saw had a Nativity on display. This one was halfway up the Spanish steps.
The figurines were just adorable.
We also saw these strange little stuffed Santas climbing up ladders to rooftops. Everytime we saw them I wondered why on earth his reindeer had dropped him off on the ground, forcing him to make the dangerous climb up to the roof. And, if they are going to be like that, why not just use his shrinking magic to sneak in the doggy door?
The view from above.
Here we are at the very top of the Spanish steps. The view is amazing and the sunset was beautiful.
As we wandered back toward the general area of our hotel, we spotted this exquisite facade of a church.
The intersection next to the church was breathtaking, with a carved alcove and statue on each corner. This is the sort of thing that made me very greatful for all the walking we did--we saw so many of these little gems that simply aren't on the tourist must-see lists.
Entering Vatican City. We took our guidebook's advice and headed to St. Peter's early in the day. As you can see, there was very little foot traffic as we headed through the arches to the square.
And the square was relatively empty.
We explored the square a bit, getting a picture of the nativity in the center. The figurines here were life size, some with costumes dating back to the middle of the 19th Century.
We took some pictures beside the giant fountain--one of two that grace either side of the square. Then, waited in line for a grand total of about two minutes to get through the metal detectors before entering the basilica.

Just to warn my kind reader ahead of time, I have a thing for ceilings. I just adore the fact that ceilings were decorated just as lavishly as any wall, and I'm always in awe trying to imagine an artist spending hours upon hours working in some sort of contorted position.

This ceiling happens to greet the visitor in the basilica's atrium.
And here it is. It truly is overwhelming, simply on size alone, not to mention being covered from floor to ceiling in breathtaking artwork.

It's also beautifully lit. Here is a dome with a painting I just loved.

(Oh, and one side comment--I never, never, never, ever use flash when taking pictures of artwork. All pictures you see here are lit only with natural lighting.)

One of my favorite aspects of this trip was that I got to see many of the works of art that I was first introduced to back in my college days in my humanities classes. These works were beautiful in the (expensive) full-color textbooks, but to see them in person was a dream come true.

Here is Bernini's alterpiece that has always fascinated me.
The Dome! All I can say is wow!
Michaelangelo's Pieta. Amazing.
This is the view from the base of the dome. Yes, you can actually go up there. You pay 7eu. if you want to take the elevator or 4 if you don't mind all the stairs. We sprang for the elevator since we wanted to go all the way up and would have a lot more stairs to walk after the elevator ride.
An upclose shot of the mosaics that decorate the base of the dome. I'm standing about three feet away.
Here's a shot of those same mosaics on the other side of the dome. Yep, it's big.
After enjoying the view from the base of the dome, we began our journey up to the top. First we wound our way up a spiral staircase. Then, things straightened out, sort of, and we started up a staircase that began to curve inward with the angle of the dome. Switchbacks were after that, which eventually led us to another, much narrower spiral staircase. Finally, we emerged to a spectacular view...

A birdseye view of the square. Remember that big fountain I took a picture in front of, it's that little itty-bitty thing towards the left of the square. Yikes! Good thing neither of us are afraid of heights.

Also, notice that black line that follows the far curve of the columns? That's the line to go through the metal detectors. Our timing was impecable.
Back down all those stairs, we were able to explore the rooftop and see the Apostles up close.
After we finally made our way down, we headed over to the museum. The museum line, was much better by the time we got there--only one block long instead of the four blocks it was when we first got off the metro.
Kevin's obligatory statue pose.
Hmmmm...I sense a new costume project developing...

Another ceiling. This particular one is in a hallway lined by maps. I was in heaven.

The museum was insanely crowded, though I'm sure it can get much worse. There are signs everywhere directing people to the Sistine Chapel, which the crowd mindlessly follow. They hardly even stop to look at anything on the way there. And I thought flying on Southwest was dehumanizing.

The Raphael rooms. Yep, amazing.

The next area was actually the Sistine Chapel, but you aren't allowed to take pictures in there, and unlike a lot of the churches we went to later that were on the honor system, the Chapel actually had guards stationed on platforms who would holler at anyone who held up a camera.
This area was roped off, so I just snapped a quick shot of it. It was beautiful, but the checkerboard floor seems a bit anachronistic.
A fun spiral staircase on the way out of the museum.
We had already done a ton of walking, and our feet were ready to fall off, but K was kind enough to consent to go to one more church. I just couldn't leave Rome without seeing Saint Teresa.

Siena

My original plan was to use Siena as a jumping off point for seeing various neighboring cities, including Florence. Instead, we had a beautifully relaxing and leirsurely visit to this darling town.

 
The bed and breakfast we stayed at in Siena was this charming little place that had a few cosy rooms up the staircase.
The Duomo in Siena has this amazing striped pattern. We didn't find any information about its significance while we were there, but when we got home, my dad informed us that it was an indication that the city was loyal to the Pope.
Unlike the Vatican that had a up staircase and a separate down staircase, the Duomo has only one set. We didn't realized when we climbed up to this vantage point that we'd be stuck there for a while as it was impossible to pass people on the tiny spiral staircase.
What to do? Take more pictures, silly. Like of all those siena colored rooftops and of Il Campo with it's tower.
Oh, and here is the facade of the Duomo. Pretty spectacular, no?
The Bapistry. Siena is known for its medeival art. The bapistry walls are covered in13th century frescos, as is the town's museum which formerly served as the civic center where district representatives gathered to set laws and administer justice.
The stripey pattern continues on the inside of the Duomo as well.
The Duomo is particularly known for its mosaic floors. The most intricate parts of it are covered for most of the year, so we didn't get to see them. But the earlier, less detailed sections are merely roped off. (No, the artist didn't have a problem with proportion--she is about nine feet tall and on the floor.)
That's just so cool.
Apparently, the Duomo was also known for its library, an books have been beautifully preserved. This illuminated songbook is large enough to be used by a small chamber choir.
I feel the stirrings of yet another costume project incubating...
Couldn't take pictures inside San Dominico, but this is where Saint Catherine's head and thumb are. St. Catherine was from Siena and was the little girl responsible for convincing the Pope to return to Rome, after a stint where the Papacy relocated to France.
A view of the Duomo from an adjacent hill. There's a valley on the other side of that hedge.
The Sanctuary of St. Catherine. This is the home that she grew up in. There are two chapels in here now, both of which have been highly embellished since the saint's death.

There is also a well that made for some fun pictures.

While we were in Siena, my lower back started to bother me, with some pretty intense pain some days. The result is that we tried to take it easy most days and didn't do any of the day trips to neighboring towns that I had originally planned. No day trips also meant no Florence. Oh, well. I guess we'll just have to go back someday.

This little amphitheater is at the Medici fortress. Apparently, this isn't really a big tourist sight. We saw a few locals having picnics on the grounds, but that was about it.
Here is the view of the house from the top of the amphitheater. Can't you just imagine women walking around in all their finery, gossiping under the trees or listening to some famous vocalist.

And here is Il Campo! I waited until our final day there to take pictures because earlier this building had been all but covered up by a large stage. One of Italy's pop stars held a free concert on New Years Eve, which we attended. It was fun, but getting out of the piazza was a challenge.

One of the things Siena is famous for is the horse race that is held here twice a year. The race is proceeded by a procession of flag bearers from the various neighborhoods of the town--quite a show in and of itself in which the flags aren't just carried by the medievally clad men, but are waved and tossed in a show of skill. The race itself is a bit of a free for all, with bareback riders going break-neck speeds around the tight corners of the campo, and spectators only inches away.

Yes, this is my husband...chasing pigeons.

And then there was

Venice

I think we took a wrong turn...

We were looking for the textile and costume museum. The alley that I thought would take us there slowly closed in on us and then suddenly terminated in a tiny little dock on the Grand Canal. We never did find the museum.

 
Rialto at night. Our first evening we explored our way over to the Rialto Bridge. It was that odd time of the evening in Italy when all the restaurants are still closed but the shops have reopened.
The entire walk from St. Mark's square to the bridge was lined with shops. A peek at the other side of the bridge showed us that the continued a long way on the other side.
The Bridge of Sighs. Our hotel was just one canal over from here--the Doge's palace. From here, it was just a short walk to the square.
Between the Doge's palace and St. Mark's Basilica.
A view of the basilica from inside the palace. There is a really awesome staircase to the right.
I always love when you can tell by the architecture that a building took so long to construct that the styles changed.
A marvelous view of the square with the basilica in the background and the campanille tower. One of the benefits of traveling in the off-season is that what you see here is pretty much the extent of the crowds we saw in Venice. We had almost no wait at all to get into any museum. Things only got crowded on the path to the Rialto bridge, and that was only because of how narrow the streets are.
We saw more pigeons than tourists. There were vendors around the square selling pigeon food, which, apparently, tourists actually buy. They would then take said pigeon food and put it in their hands and promptly get swarmed by pigeons. Some of the more reckless tourists would actually put some of the feed on their heads. Granted, it made for some good pictures, but I'd hate to be the one with pigeon poop in my hair.
One last self-picture while dodging the pigeons.
The two pillars that greet those arrving in Venice by sea.
We finally asked someone to take our photo.
Of course, we couldn't go to Venice on our honeymoon and not take a gondola ride.
We splurged a little bit to take the ride that went by a few famous sites and then out onto the Grand Canal. This was Marco Polo's home. Later we went by the place that Mozart stayed at when he was in Venice, but I didn't manage to get a shot of it.
Our gondolier snapped a picture of us just before guiding us under the Rialto Bridge.

Here you can see St. Mark's square with the pillars and the Campanille along side the Doge's Palace.

The original Campanille lighthouse was finally demolished early in the 20th century. Due to the yearly floods, the base had deteriorated so badly the structure simply was not sound enough to stand. The current tower, if I remember correctly, was built to replace it in the 1930's.
A view of the Doge's Palace from the Lagoon.
A final look at the "new" prison. We had toured the inside during our visit to the palace, but, as usual, were not allowed to take pictures.
Our gondola ride and our trip to Italy ended with a kiss under the Bridge of Sighs.

Homecoming

Our trip was simply wonderful. Everything went smoothly, except that we left Kevin's wallet, cell-phone, and sundries at the hotel in Siena, which had to be shipped back to us. A very expensive and time consuming enterprise, to be sure.

Also, there was a bit of excitement back home while we were gone...

  

On Christmas night, my car was hit while parked in front of my parents' house. A group of kids driving what was probably a stolen SUV nicked our neighbor's car, then plowed into mine going at least sixty miles an hour--without even once hitting their breaks. My car, which originally was in front of the house, was pushed about twenty feet to the opposite side of my parents' two and a half car driveway, into my grandfather's full-sized pick up truck. My car was wedged underneath the truck and both vehicles were pushed another ten feet or so. (Both my grandfather and I always put the parking break on.) The dilinquints were incredibly able to drive away from the wreckage, but only got about five houses up the road before the SUV died, at which point, all three young people bailed and took off on foot.

We still haven't heard from the police wether or not they were able to find these guys. One of them lost a cell phone in front of our house, but one cop told my brothers that the cell phone companies are very bad about providing information to investigators.

Anyway, thanks to a pretty outstanding insurance company, I had a rental car for several weeks while we dealt with paperwork, and I now have another darling Camry with all the perks my old one had but a year newer and with a bigger engine. :)